SOLOMONS DELIGHT

It's been a while and a lot has happened over the summer. I'm still not really sure why we're back in the US, but life flows with the wind and currents, and we're in an eddy. The good news is that it's absolutely beautiful in the Chesapeake Bay and Solomons is a perfect spot to consider our next adventure.

Devon, Simon and Izzy are in school... ouch. Simon likes the routine and knowing what's next, Izzy is attracting boyfriends like flies, and Devon just wishes he was back in the islands living the dream.

Doreen is in limbo too... transitioning back to "dry land" after 3 years on the ocean is proving to be very difficult. The complexity of mainland society, the rules, the BS... it's overwhelming and frustrating. There's an urge to turn south and follow the flocks of geese passing overhead, it's almost a feral sense, driven by nature. But the new anchors that we've attached like a car and school are pulling at the chain, so I think we're safe from a spontaneous move... well for now at least.

I hope it will pass, but as long as we have Odessa, we have an exit. I was joking that we are the ultimate survivalists, not an underground bunker full of food, but a vessel that can go anywhere and take care of us if needed.

The next step is a house... I'm shuddering at the thought of that anchor. It'll get cold here in a month or so, and Odessa isn't designed for living in freezing conditions. I'm not fancying running up the dock to the bathhouse in the snow either. We'll rent a place for 6 months and see if we have found the next adventure in the spring.

Adventure list:
1. Buy some cheap land in Maryland and build a sustainable house (if it's possible with all of the rules)
2. Move to the mountains, buy some land and build a sustainable house
3. Turn south and sail to Panama
4. Go to China

It's going to be an interesting winter.

ST LUCIA DREAM

It really does feel like a dream... 12 months ago we were enjoying life to its fullest sailing amongst the beautiful islands of the windwards. This is the sail from Rodney Bay. St Lucia to the Deux Pitons in the south of the island.

Isabel hooking in to a spanish mackerel. 

This fish gave Isabel a good fight, but in the end he made an excellent fish curry thanks to Devon's cooking skills.

Our first look at the Pitons.

After grabbing a mooring ball. It was all fun and games.

Just beautiful. Captain Allan relaxes. 

A nice shower after our snorkel feels wonderful. 

So lovely. 

The colors. 

I would go again.

HAITI... WHAT CAN YOU SAY

Looking back on our sailing adventure to Haiti and not knowing how to describe this amazing and different place, I find it hard for me to form the correct words to express our love and adoration for these people.

I thought that all hope of me writing a blog about Haiti was lost, because I found myself with no photos to show this unique place. It was too dangerous for us to pull out our cameras and film or photograph our time there. But, I was surprised when I came across a few pictures on one of the cameras memory cards. There were only a few shots that Allan had taken on our first days there and before we were told very firmly that it was not a good idea. I hope that the photos will show you this beautiful small island off the southern coast of Haiti called Isle a Vache.

Isle a Vache in the red circle. This is the only safe place to bring a boat in Haiti. We were accosted by pirates a few days before when we touched the mainland... that's another story. But the bottom line is that any boat, no matter how small, is a floating palace to the local people. They see running water, electricity pulled from the sun and wind, people with sun glasses and diving gear... this is unreal to them and the stuff of legend.

Odessa in Captain Morgan Harbor. Completely protected from weather and surrounded by a small village. This lagoon was the base for the Pirate Morgan and is a jewel compared to the squaller of Les Ceyes a few miles across the water on the mainland.

Fisherman brave the rough seas to provide for their families and villagers. Haitians are the best sailors we've seen... probably the best in the world and their methods haven't change in hundreds of years.

These boats are handmade with skills past down from father to son. We would wake just before sunrise to the sound of men singing to the chopping beat of axes.

Local children sit in hand made fishing boats that are beached on the shore. 

There are no docks or marinas here.

The locals not only craft their own boats, they have to make the planks of wood with no electricity and only rough metal tools. Nothing is shipped to the island, there is no money... just trade. Wood and power tools bought off the shelf is just a dream told to the villagers by those lucky enough to come to the US and go shopping at Home Depot. It all sounds like fantasy to the villagers.

If you look close you can see the the sail powered

 fishing boats, no engine because it is a rare item. 

A mother and father wait as Allan stitches a gash on their young son from an accident. Basic first aid doesn't exist here. We found ourselves becoming the local doctors for small wounds, it was overwhelming and we had to divert many to Sister Flora and her clinic two hours hard hike to the other end of the island.

Ashtun, a fantastic teen fishes under our boat for lunch. The young people are the future of Haiti, it'll take time for them to become powerful enough in their society to make a difference. The most devastating hurdle to the young is the culture of corruption created by the aid cycle and perpetuated by their peers... we hope that they make it.

Ashtun, Colbe and Castro work hard to provide for themselves. School serves a purpose beyond education... it keeps kids busy and out of trouble. We were surprised at the lack of trouble here with so many kids having nothing to do all day. They're ingenious, they have aspirations, and just frustrated with the situation that they're born into.

The relaxed life style here is quickly embraced by Simon. Spot the difference between our US bred kids and the local children. Our youth are a reflection of our society and in general we see more singing, smiling, proactivity and general lust for life from Haitian children then any of their counterparts in the US and 1st world countries.

The last few things I would say about our time in Haiti is that the people are warm and friendly. The locals have a resilience that I have never experienced before. They can make something from nothing and are very tough,.. but on the inside is a heart of kindness when you take the time to open it.

We have met many people who have opinions about Haiti, easy solutions and a complete misunderstanding of life there and the challenges it faces. It's a country that is continually disappointed by their goverment and has becoming a country of welfare and hand outs by other nations that naively want to help. You must remember one thing... you have to live there to understand and never ever let your guard down, keep your street smarts on high alert at all times... it is a very different world.

BACK ON THE GRID... AHHH

Life back in the USA isn't as easy as I thought.

With mounting paper work and government services to deal with... I am truly frustrated.

I went to renew my driver license and thought I had everything that I needed to do it.

But, I was turned down!!! Here's a picture of the paper work that I needed to renew my license, minus one missing item.

7 forms of documents just to renew an existing drivers license.

Now to touch on taxes.

This is a project that has taken us many weeks to just get the papers in order. 

This is a picture of just some of the paper work that I have to have for U.S. taxes. Remember that we live off the grid and don't really have any bills. I will also have to rent out a storage container and hold on to this maze of paper for seven years.

This years tax paper work for one very very small U.S. Business.

Life in the U.S.A. is not fun at the moment.

The "rub" is that living for 2 years off the grid, where most things are done with cash or trade, there is no paperwork, so... the tax rules don't make a lot of sense. I guess that taxes are good when you're "in the system" and using all of the services provided by your tax dollars, but when you're not... it all seems a bit ridiculous really. A flat tax would be nice and simple, but then you'd have thousands of poor attorneys and accountants opening sweet shops or something.

It'll all be over soon and we can get back to living... until next year.

Dominica and her people

We had the privilege of meeting a sharp witted young man named Tom.

He owns a tiny restaurant on the beach named Zam Zam Cafe.

We were just walking down the street and he greeted us with a kind hello and asked if we wanted help finding a good restaurant for dinner. We talked for a little bit and realized that Tom was an up and up chap.

Following him down to Zam Zams Cafe we discovered that he not only owns the place, but also built it himself and was carving out a home in this wonderful place for his family. His wife is mexican and it was in Mexico that learned a special building process to guard against hurricanes and earthquakes.

We also found out Tom was a new daddy and met his lovely wife and daughter at the restaurant. The food was very well prepared and the flavors dream like, obviously with love and a passion for life. We left fat and happy and slept well that night.

The boys enjoy a game of dominos. They asked for a cigar and a whisky,.. please.

The back of Zam Zams opens up to a spectacular view.

Tom hard at work making mexican cuisine melt in your mouth.

Tom was kind to take time to meet and greet all his guest. You feel like one of the family.

Allan and I came across Anchorage Hotel were they had a real whale skeleton. I was not aware that the whales swim close to the shore because of the deep water 100 yards off the beach. This whale passed away from old age and washed ashore. So crazy Allan and I thought it was funny to be in a whales belly.

Allan checks for cavities.

Dominica is a very special place... our hope is that it stays this way for a while, resisting the allure of quick money from tourists and focusing on it's unique resources, the people and nature.

Dominica the Eden we hoped for

When we arrived in the semi dark of our first night sail, the very tiered crew fell fast asleep rather quickly. I was left alone in the moonlit cockpit as the sky began to change from black to glowing grays, then blue, finally unfolding to greet the sun as it rose in it's glory peeking over the lush mountains. The aura was unique as the sun and moon shared the same sky for a brief period, almost as if they were changing watch themselves.

The warm glow in the cockpit was cozy.

Very tiered, but happy to be here.

 I too fell asleep after a prayer to thank God for a safe trip.

After a nice rest we went into the bustling town of Rosearu and took a delightful taxi up to Victoria Falls and the hot springs which are in the southern part of Dominica. During a fifteen minute exciting  ride, twisting and climbing into the interior, everything quickly changed before our eyes. The lush overgrowth encroached on the road at times like a roof over your house. The whole family just fell in love with the stunning plant life that encompasses this wild country.

Steam rises and water flows down the landscape shaping it

 and helping the growth of such a magnificent land.

As we walked along the road side bananas hung over the street.

There must of been hundreds.

Families of goats dotted the paths. Munching as much as they could.

The foot path to Victoria Falls.

Home of the Mama and the Papa waterfalls.

Isabel makes tracks up to the falls.

Izzy bought a flute from a "jungle guy"

Once we drew closer to the falls our path began to change.

The trail became rocky and very moist. We had to take care and step with caution on the moss covered stones. For a group of boat bohemians who go barefoot all of the time, hiking shoes were foreign.  We felt a little bit like, "Fish out of water" on dry land.

The trail changes were minuscule at first, but quickly became reshaped by many years of flowing water.

For our Russian friend Valery

Boulders became larger and climbing the rocks became laborious.

Allan and Devon were the only ones in our bunch that made it close up and personal with Mama Falls and victory is theirs.  

Flowers just spring up in the earth all over the territory. There isn't a spot on the ground that doesn't have an alluring flower growing form it.  The locals just pick the different species and create spectacular arrangements on the side of the streets for all to enjoy.

The people are very creative in Dominica.

Dominica is such a blessed joy to see hear and taste. I would love to come again.