SHAKE DOWN

Finally... after being 18 months into our 6 month refit plan, we escaped the lagoon for Odessa's first shakedown cruise. Yes, 18 months stuck on the island, but to be fair we did take a 4 month diversion during the summer. I can't describe how ready we were to leave the dock and begin the real adventure, spirits were high and everyone began counting down the hours to the bridge opening.

The big day arrived and the last minute chores began... the boys dove the propeller to clean off any growth and make sure that the folding prop actually folded. It's amazing how quickly barnacles and general lagoon scum grows on your bottom... especially the unprotected parts like the propeller and shaft.

Major chores done, and we we're planning on the special 11:00am bridge opening. It is regatta week and there are more bridge openings over the next few days. We also wanted to take advantage of the confusion and slip out with the 30 or so boats heading out to practice for the following race days. The rules are a bit confusing with the island being two countries and the fact that Odessa had been on the Dutch side of the lagoon for 2 years, but is checked in through the French side.

Well, the preparations took longer and we ended up having to wait for the 4:30pm bridge, but we were ready. Engine purring we slipped out of Porto Cupecoy, with the many friends that we have made here all standing on the dock... it was almost sad because everyone knows that we'll be leaving permanently soon and our shakedown was the first real sign that proper goodbyes were coming.

Motoring across the lagoon we chatted about all of the places we'd been along the way, we waved to our cruiser friends living on the many boats anchored along the lagoon channel as we approached the bridge.

Crossing beneath this singe concrete and steel break in the cycle of life on the island felt very strange, exciting yes, but also sad. All of the cars stuck in miles of traffic waiting for the bridge to drop, each one wishing us every insult for interrupting their lives, and the revelers at the yacht club all cheering and excited about the next 3 days of racing and parties. Island life is a strange and diverse ecosystem all condensed into a few square miles of rock.

As we passed under the bridge I felt a huge weight lifting from my shoulders, the unknown was sweeping over us like a blanket... it was warm, soft and comfortable... we felt freedoms allure pulling us through the channel and out into the ocean.

Wow... it's crowded!
There must have been 100 boats anchored in the bay, so we slipped quietly around to the outside edge of the fleet... and back in close to the beach, next to the runway. The sun began its last push for the horizon so we dropped our anchor through the crystal clear water and set it into the pure white sand 20ft below.

We were a bit stunned and sat in the cockpit in silence... everything was different now, quiet, calm and comfortable. Devon cooked up some dinner and we discussed tomorrows adventure until we simply couldn't stay awake anymore. But, everything was different... each sound new, and the movement of Odessa under the influence of a gentle ground swell sweeping across the bay from the south east and light breeze from the north east. I set the anchor alarm and we settled in to get some rest for the big day tomorrow... not so easy as the excitement and newness of everything made for little sleep.

Morning came early... 5:00am I think. Coffee got my body moving and we watched the racing boats pouring out of the lagoon. Once they we're released for the round island race we pulled anchor and slipped out from the turquoise water to the deep blue of the ocean.

Raising the main sail we set one reef so that we didn't get over powered on our first experience with Odessa. How she sails is unknown at this point, so best to keep the sail pattern short, even though it was only a 10 knot day and the weather perfect.

We also unfurled the Genoa, a big cruising sail and felt Odessa surge forward as the wind filled our sails, she leaned a little under the influence of her fuel and showed her purpose as she turned the wind into power transforming from a bobbing motor boat to a knife slicing through the water. Her balance is perfect, she tracks beautifully, smooth and without any drama. We ran off wind following the regatta fleet, but heading out deeper into the blue to find stronger more consistent wind.

Smiles all round. I had forgotten that Doreen and the kids had never sailed before. For me it was still a bit of a challenge, but I knew what to expect. I can't imagine the feeling of relief for my family when each one realized just how amazing it is to be in balance with nature and her forces, and said "I love sailing". This meant so much to me because I also realized that Doreen and the children know how much I love the ocean, sailing and adventure. But, it began as "my" dream and up until now they weren't sure if it was theirs. My heart sang all day as I watched the smiles and excitement oozing from my family.

We lucked into some better wind a few miles offshore and zipped along at an amazing pace, 8 knots in 10 knots of wind under short sail and dragging our heavy dingy and huge outboard behind us. We went to full main and found some more speed as we made the turn to head up the Anguila channel towards Marigot. To our amazement we began catching the smaller class regatta racers who had been hugging the shoreline for the shortest rout along the course, but only found light fluky winds. Being careful not to get too exuberant we began beating into wind as we passed the course marker, and spent time practicing our tacking and shortening sail. Odessa leaned a little more as we made the fastest point of sail and we zipped along with no drama and a cool breeze sweeping across the cockpit.

Doreen and Simon made lunch as we sailed and the conversation swung from sailing to fishing. I'm surprised the boys were able to contain themselves for so long, but as we turned to beat back to the anchorage it was time to get some lines wet.

We hooked up very quickly, but as we were close to shore we caught Jacks and Barracuda... no good for dinner but great for fun. It was a perfect day, Odessa sailed far better than expected, our new rig performed beautifully and everyone had an amazing time. The 18 months of work had all been worth it and even though we still have a few weeks on the island and several boat as well as work projects to finish, we have a new confidence, a refreshed sense of adventure and the allure of the unknown has gripped us again.

Hurricane Tomas and whirlwind Tony create an unexpected dilema.

Let's set the scene... we're adamant about being as environmentally friendly as possible to see if you can live very cheaply, very comfortably and very healthily while using less than 10% of the energy and resources that we did in our previous normal lives in a house, all of the conveniences, a couple of cars and three kids.

So, we're in the early years of our adventure, wide eyed and bushy tailed when everything is new and cool... even showering with a hose off the back of the boat on a crowded dock is fun and not an inconvenience. But, there is temptation... yes, lots of temptation, and this time it comes from two unexpected sources... a great friend and a hurricane.

Hurricane Tomas is the first player in this chain of events... it's south of us and we're watching it closely for the "Crazy Ivan" turn which it's predicted to make. If it makes the turn on the next couple of days we will be in trouble, either way the result of a close storm is heat and rain. We're stuck on the dock at Saint Maarten Shipyard while we finish our mast and get it back on Odessa. This means that we don't have any awnings up with nothing to support them and it's crazy hot in the boat, 80f/27c at night and 90f/32 during the day with the hatches open, but with rain we have to close the hatches and suffer the consequences and an additional 10 degrees.

Enter Tony, who along with his family Joanie, and Jesse have become very close friends and we enjoy their company immensely,  especially Tony's boundless energy and help. "I have a couple of portable marine air conditioning units, use one to cool the boat." He innocently said, not knowing the dilemma his generosity would create.

It felt weird, even wrong to be thinking about using such a power hungry item with only one self indulgent result, "personal comfort". Are we turning away from our goal, will we become slaves to the very grid based conveniences that we're getting away from?.. "It's bloody hot, so let's plug it and and see where it goes".

In the words of Yoda... "Not so easy this convenient installation is". Odessa only has one normal deck hatch in the middle of the boat and it's too small for the AC unit which must be placed over a deck hatch. The only option is the very large sail hatch in the forepeak (front cabin) which is way too big. Get some plywood, cut holes, line everything up, try to level the AC unit, a curved deck means sealing all the way around and finally strapping the whole lot down so that it is secure. a few hours later and it looks right.

We finally had everything in place and with the hatches closed the temperature rapidly began to creep towards the 100f/38c mark. Plug her in and away she goes, quietly the cool air began wafting from the vent in a seductive flow full of promise. The bow cabin cooled down nicely, it's a shame that it's full of sails, ropes and awnings and we can't use it until the mast is up. The warm air vent into the AC unit is right next to the cold air out, so we stuck a powerful little Venturi fan in front of the cold air out and it sucks the cold air blowing it nicely down the middle of the boat. Unfortunately Odessa's foredeck raises towards the bow, so we can't quite get the AC unit level and this causes the condeznsated water to drip inside the hatch... "bring out the buckets". It's actually quite a good little water maker producing about a liter of water an hour.

The AC unit holds the temperature at 90f/32c during the day with the hatches closed... so that's an improvement. But at night it's a seductive force keeping the whole boat at 72f/22c of lovely dry air. We woke up this morning at 4:30am... very early during heavy rain to check on the position of hurricane Tomas. We made coffee in dark uncomfortable silence, both Doreen and I were unsure of the situation we found ourselves in and were thinking the same thing... "it feels really good, but is this right?'

Fortunately, even though air conditioning is very nice, we could only use it when Odessa is at a dock with shore power, so we don't have to commit to the evils of singular, power hungry "comfort" devices. We can be happy knowing that once Odessa is back together and anchored offshore, the lovely Caribbean breeze will waft freely through the cabin night and day, and the awnings will mean we can leave the hatches open when it rains. But for now, while we're working everyday in the yard with the heat and humidity, we'll take all of the cold air we can get... thanks Tony, and of course Tomas.